Moon Spotlight Costa Rica's Nicoya Peninsula by Christopher P. Baker

Author:Christopher P. Baker
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Avalon Travel
Published: 2010-11-22T16:00:00+00:00

Accommodations

A delightful Peruvian couple run Kontiki (tel. 506/2652-9117, www.kontikiplayanegra.com, $10 s, $20 d, $25 quad), about three kilometers north of Los Pargos, between Lagartillo and Negra. This rustic and fairly basic farmhouse with a wonderful offbeat ambience has five thatched cabinas raised on stilts, with shared bath and cold water; one rates as a virtual treehouse and features two dorms with “Goldilocks and the Three Bears”-style bunks and a double bed (howler monkeys hang out in the treetops at eye level). The place abounds with pre-Columbian figurines. Peruvian dishes are cooked in an outdoor oven, and it has Wi-Fi. Rates include breakfast.

The three-story, all-hardwood Mono Congo Lodge (tel. 506/2652-9261, www.monocongolodge.com, $65-95 s/d), about one kilometer north of Los Pargos, has lost its warm welcome of late. This Colorado-style lodge that has been described as “a mixture of Swiss Family Robinson tree house and Australian outback bed-and-breakfast” is hand-built of stone and hardwoods and has six simply furnished air-conditioned rooms with magnificent high beds boasting orthopedic mattresses, mosquito nets, and batik spreads, plus screened windows, TVs/DVDs, and exquisite tile work in the bathrooms (some have stone walls). A wraparound veranda has hammocks and leather lounge chairs. It’s surrounded by fruit trees and dry forest. Horseback riding tours, boat charters, and massage can be arranged. Rates include breakfast.

Pablo’s Picasso (tel. 506/2652-9158, $12.50 with fan, $15 with a/c), at Playa Negra, is legendary among surfers. This rustic hostelry and surfers’ gathering spot is run by a friendly Yank named Paul. He offers four air-conditioned, spacious, and surprisingly elegant rooms with private baths with cold water (two with shared baths), and two air-conditioned cabinas with kitchens. You can camp for $4 per person, including toilets and showers. Hammocks are slung beneath the rustic bar, which has free Internet and a pool table.

For an alternative, consider Pico Negro Surf Camp (tel. 506/2652-9369, $10 pp), with four rooms in a two-story building facing the village soccer field. Each has shared stoned-lined showers with cold water only, and pizzas are served in a rustic restaurant.

By the sands at Playa Negra, Hotel Playa Negra (tel. 506/2652-9134, www.playanegra.com, $70 s or, $80 d low season, $77 s or $88 d high season) is designed like a South African kraal. The circular cabins are lovely, with simple yet colorful motifs. It has a simple restaurant and games room, plus a swimming pool and surf shop.

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